It is a bit disappointing that by the time mid-October rolls around, La Romita has usually closed her doors for the year. Disappointing because some amazing Umbrian delicacies come into season in fall, chief among these the black truffles of Norcia.
Truffles are the “fruit” of a fungus that grows on the roots of forest trees, particularly oak and hazelnut. Up the Valnerina (Valley of the Nera River) to the northeast of Terni, three rivers pass through forests of these trees around the town of Norci and create the perfect environment for tartufi neri. The best ones are gathered starting in the fall, with the season peak marked by the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero truffle festival in February. Even out of season, recipes “al tartufo” are so common in the area that one can easily forget the truffle’s luxury-item status in the rest of the world!
As is typical of Italian cuisine, preparations with tartufo are simple and highlight the ingredient. The recipe below is a simple chicken dish that offsets the earthiness of the truffle with the sweetness of tomatoes.
Note: Truffle can be both hard to find and expensive in the States. While not the same, some thinly sliced mushrooms, well browned in a pan with a little olive oil, are an adequate replacement – as you can see in the featured picture!